How to Care for Costumes: Wash, Dry, Repair and Store

Caring for a costume comes down to four habits. Read the care label before anything touches water. Treat stains and sweat quickly and gently. Dry the costume fully, away from direct heat. Store it clean, dry and in one labeled place. Do those four things and most costumes look good for years instead of one night.

This guide covers the full cycle, from the minute you take the costume off to the bin on the closet shelf, with the exceptions that trip people up: sequins, tulle, spandex, foam pieces, wigs and "dry clean only" tags.

TL;DR

• Read the tag first. When there is no tag, or the costume has trims, hand-wash or spot-clean instead of using the machine.
• Treat stains fast, test any cleaner on a hidden spot, and never put a stained costume in the dryer, because heat can set the stain.
• Hang or lay the costume flat to dry, and use a steamer or a low iron with a towel between the fabric and the iron for wrinkles.
• Store costumes clean and completely dry, in a cool, dark, dry place, with every piece of one costume kept together and labeled.

Table of Contents

• Start with the label and a quick inspection
• Can you wash a costume in the washing machine?
• Spot cleaning: stains, makeup and candy
• Sweat and odor: freshen without soaking
• Handle embellished and fragile costumes carefully
• Drying and getting wrinkles out
• Costume storage: how to store Halloween costumes
• Practical costume storage ideas
• Our perspective on costume care
• Ready for next season's costume?
• FAQ
• Sources

Start with the label and a quick inspection

Before you wash anything, spend two minutes looking at the costume. Most mistakes happen because someone treated a costume like a T-shirt.

The American Cleaning Institute says to follow the garment care label first. For most delicate pieces it suggests cold water, and it says to test a hidden area for colorfastness before the first wash. A seam allowance, the inside of a hem or the underside of a collar all work for the test.

Then check three things:

1. Fabric. Polyester, nylon and acrylic are forgiving. Spandex, tulle, wool, silk and velvet are not.
2. Embellishments. Look for sequins, rhinestones, feathers, appliqués, pearls, glued-on foam or printed vinyl.
3. Hardware. Zippers, hook-and-eye closures, snaps and Velcro can snag other fabric in the wash.

A costume that mixes fabric with feathers, rhinestones, sequins or pearls generally should not be washed or dry cleaned unless those pieces come off first, according to a dance fabric care guide. If the trims are sewn on and cannot come off, spot-clean the costume rather than soaking it.

If you want a deeper walk-through, our washing costumes guide covers Halloween and cosplay outfits in more detail.

Can you wash a costume in the washing machine?

Sometimes. It depends on the fabric and what is attached to it.

Samsung's support guidance says polyester, nylon and acrylic costumes can usually go in the machine after you check the care instructions. It says to hand-wash if you are unsure or the costume has decorations that may not survive, and to hand-wash spandex and tulle.

The quick decision table:

How to machine wash a costume

The American Cleaning Institute recommends the gentle cycle, a detergent made for delicate fabrics if you have one, and a net lingerie bag for trims that need protection. In practice:

1. Close zippers and hooks, and tie any sashes loosely.
2. Turn the costume inside out. A dance-costume specialist quoted in Dance Teacher turns flower and snowflake costumes inside out and runs them on a fast, cold-water setting.
3. Wash it alone or with a few similar colors. Bright reds, blacks and metallics are the usual bleeders.
4. Use cold water and the gentle cycle.
5. Take it out right away. Do not let it sit damp in the drum.

Skip fabric softener on costumes with any stretch or on anything shiny, since it can leave a film that dulls the finish. If you do use a softener, use only a little.

How to hand-wash a costume

Hand-washing is the safe default for anything you are unsure about. Dance Teacher advises hand-washing costumes made of Lycra, spandex, tulle, wool or silk, and costumes with sequins or other delicate embellishments, because machine agitation can damage the fabric or decoration.

1. Fill a clean sink or tub with cold water.
2. Add a small amount of gentle detergent. Follow the directions on the bottle.
3. Press the costume under the water and swish it gently. Do not scrub or wring. The American Cleaning Institute says not to rub silk.
4. Rinse until the water runs clear. Drain and refill as needed.
5. Lay the costume on a clean dry towel and roll the towel up to press out water. The Institute recommends this rolling step after rinsing.

If the costume sheds color in the first rinse, stop and let it dry. Take it to a professional cleaner and tell them what happened.

Spot cleaning: stains, makeup and candy

Halloween brings its own stain list: chocolate, candy dye, face paint, fake blood, hot cider and whatever happened on the sidewalk. Speed matters more than the product.

Utah State University Extension notes that some costumes are not washable. Its advice is to treat stains promptly, test a stain remover on a hidden area, avoid too much rubbing, and inspect the item before drying, since dryer heat can set a stain that is still there.

A workable routine:

1. Blot, don't rub. Lift off what you can with a clean cloth or the back of a spoon.
2. Test first. Put a small amount of your cleaner on a hidden seam and wait a few minutes.
3. Dab from the outside in. This keeps the stain from spreading.
4. Rinse with cold water. Press a clean damp cloth over the spot to take out the soap.
5. Look before you dry. If a shadow remains, repeat. Do not use heat until it is gone.

A costume used for several nights should be spot-cleaned between events and washed after the last one. Dance Teacher gives similar advice for stage costumes: spot-clean after performances and wait until the run ends to wash or dry-clean.

Hidden stains from perfume and hairspray

Some stains are invisible when you put the costume away. A South Dakota State University extension fact sheet on drycleaning and fabric care notes that perfume and hairspray can leave stains that only appear during dry cleaning, drying or pressing. If you take a costume to a cleaner, tell them what was spilled or sprayed so they can pay attention to it.

Sweat and odor: freshen without soaking

Sweat is the most common reason a costume gets washed at all, and it is also the problem on costumes that cannot be washed. A padded top, a character mask liner or a costume with sewn-in armor pieces all trap odor.

Start with air. Turn the costume inside out, hang it in a room with moving air for a day, and keep it out of direct sunlight if the color is dark or bright. Never seal a damp costume in a bag.

For what air does not fix, one dance-fabric care guide suggests that most odors can be removed by lightly spritzing the inside of a garment with half distilled water and half vodka. Mist the lining, not the outside. Do not soak it. Let it dry fully, and test a hidden spot first, since some dyes and finishes react to alcohol.

If you want to understand why odors cling to some fabrics and not others, this piece on fabric routines for sweat smell is a good companion, including the diluted vodka and distilled water spray and what to do between wears.

A few habits that cut odor down in the first place:

• Wear a thin layer under the costume, like a base-layer tee or leggings, so skin oils stay off the costume itself.
• Add removable underarm liners for costumes you cannot wash.
• Air the costume out the same night, not a week later.

Handle embellished and fragile costumes carefully

If you spent real money on a detailed costume, a screen-accurate piece or an older vintage costume, treat it more like a collectible than clothing.

The Smithsonian's Museum Conservation Institute advises washing your hands first to remove skin oils and taking off jewelry or sharp accessories that could catch the fabric. It also points out that antique or fragile textiles have different fibers, dyes and finishes from modern clothing. It warns against improvised conservation and recommends a professional textile conservator for complicated care. That applies to a family heirloom, a vintage theater piece or anything you could not replace.

For modern costumes the same logic works at a smaller scale:

• Handle sequins, beading and lace with clean, dry hands.
• Take off belts, props and metal accessories before you put a costume on or off.
• Do not wear a rhinestone costume while you eat or drink.
• Keep sharp props away from soft fabrics.

When you buy a costume where the details count, such as a film character with specific trims, think about how you will clean it before the first wear. Our guide to getting a screen-accurate look right covers choosing pieces that hold up.

Drying and getting wrinkles out

Drying is where a clean costume can still be ruined.

Air dry whenever you can. The American Cleaning Institute recommends drying hand-washed pieces flat, away from direct sunlight. Samsung says hanging costumes to dry works too, and that hanging them outside can speed things up. The two work together: hang sturdy polyester in the breeze, and lay delicate or heavy pieces flat on a towel, since a wet heavy costume can stretch on a hanger.

Skip high heat. Do not use the dryer for tulle, spandex, foam, vinyl or embellished costumes. If a label allows tumble drying, use low heat and take the costume out while it is still slightly damp. Check for stains first, as Utah State warns.

Remove wrinkles safely

Dance Teacher's advice is to use a steamer, or to check the label before ironing and place a towel between the costume and the iron on low heat. In practice:

• Steamer: best for polyester, satin, velvet and capes. Keep the steamer a few inches from the fabric and do not press it against sequins or glued trims.
• Iron: low heat only, inside out, with a towel or pressing cloth between the fabric and the iron. Never iron over printed designs, vinyl, or plastic gems.
• Shower trick: hang the costume in a bathroom while someone takes a hot shower. It is mild, and it works for light creasing on sturdy fabric.

Store packed-flat costumes loosely for a few hours before the event so wrinkles can relax.

Costume storage: how to store Halloween costumes

Proper storage is what most people miss, and it decides whether the costume works next year. The principle is simple: clean, dry, dark, cool, and kept together.

Sparefoot's cosplay storage guide says to clean and fully dry every component before packing, then store costumes in a cool, dark, dry place and keep each costume's pieces together in labeled containers. It adds that a consistently dehumidified basement may be suitable.

What to pack in

• Breathable garment bags for hanging costumes with long skirts, capes or coats.
• Lidded bins for folded costumes, accessories and props.
• Acid-free tissue paper for fine pieces. The Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture advises putting acid-free tissue between textile folds to support the shape and prevent permanent creases.

What to keep away from fabric

The Museum Conservation Institute says to avoid direct contact between textiles and wood, newsprint, non-rag cardboard and plastic films, because they can have harmful effects. So skip the unlined cardboard box and the newspaper wrapping. A cotton sheet or acid-free tissue between the costume and the container solves it.

Plastic needs care too. The Library of Congress says plastic bags or bins can add secondary protection from water, but using them in high-humidity areas raises the risk of mold. If your closet, garage or basement is damp, a plastic bin is a risk rather than a safeguard. Use a dehumidifier or choose a drier spot.

Pests and the room you choose

The Museum Conservation Institute advises keeping food and drinks out of rooms where textiles are kept and not smoking there. The Library of Congress advises isolating textiles you suspect have insects and treating them promptly. If you spot holes, webbing or small cases on a costume, bag it separately and deal with it before it touches the rest of the bin.

Practical costume storage ideas

A clean costume is no use if it takes an hour to find the cape. These ideas are the ones that save the most time:

1. One bin per costume or per person. Everything goes in: top, bottoms, hat, gloves, belt, props, makeup. Nothing lives in a separate "accessories" box.
2. A photo on the lid. Take a picture of the finished look and tape it to the outside. You see right away what is inside and what to put on.
3. A packing list inside. Write the pieces on an index card. Our accessories checklist gives a good starting point for what to include.
4. Zip pouches for small parts. Gloves, belts, buckles, ties, clip-on tails and wig caps go in labeled pouches inside the bin.
5. Hang long capes. A wide padded hanger in a garment bag keeps a cape or robe from creasing and keeps it off the floor.
6. Label by season. Keep Halloween and Christmas outfits in separate, clearly marked bins. A Santa suit and a ghost robe should not share a shelf by accident. For a Santa suit that gets heavy use, see our Santa costume guide.
7. Store kids' costumes by size. Children outgrow costumes fast. A "will fit next year" bin and a "pass it on" bin keep the good ones moving.
8. Date the bin. Write the year of the last wash on the label so you know whether a costume was cleaned before storage.

Wigs, masks and hard props need their own space. Put a wig on a form or in a bag with its brush. Stuff masks lightly with tissue so they hold their shape, and keep foam pieces away from heavy items that could crush them.

Our perspective on costume care

We sell Halloween and Christmas costumes for kids and adults, with a lot of film and pop-culture characters. What we hear from customers is that the costume rarely fails at the party. It fails afterward, when it gets thrown in a bag damp and comes out in October a year later with creases and a smell.

Our view is that a detailed costume is worth looking after because the detail is what makes it work. That is why we focus on thematic authenticity and careful design, and why we say a costume should be treated according to its own parts: its fabric, its trims and its accessories.

Three rules we would give a friend:

• Read the label on the actual costume in your hands, and when in doubt, spot-clean rather than soak.
• Clean and dry it before it goes away, even if it only got worn once.
• Keep the whole character together. A costume stored with its accessories is a costume you can put on in five minutes.

— zz

Ready for next season's costume?

If your old costume is worn out, or the kids have outgrown theirs, you can browse our Halloween costumes, a dedicated range of kids Halloween costumes, or our Christmas costumes collection. Whatever you choose, check the label when it arrives and use this guide to keep it in shape.

FAQ

Can you wash a costume in the washing machine?

Often yes, if the label allows it and the costume is made of polyester, nylon or acrylic without delicate trims. Use the gentle cycle and cold water, and put trims in a net lingerie bag. Hand-wash spandex, tulle and anything with sequins, feathers or glued details.

How do you clean a costume that says dry clean only or has no label?

Spot-clean the stained areas with cold water and a tiny amount of mild soap after testing a hidden spot. For a full clean, take it to a professional cleaner and tell them about any spills, perfume or hairspray. If the costume is valuable or old, ask about a textile conservator.

How do you get wrinkles out of a costume?

Use a steamer where the fabric allows it. If you iron, check the label, turn the costume inside out, use low heat and put a towel or pressing cloth between the iron and the fabric. Never iron over printed vinyl, plastic gems or glued trims.

How should you store costumes between Halloweens?

Clean and dry them completely, then keep each costume's pieces together in a labeled container in a cool, dark, dry place. Use acid-free tissue between folds and avoid direct contact with wood, newsprint or plain cardboard. Skip airtight plastic in humid rooms because of the mold risk.

Sources

• American Cleaning Institute: Decked Out for Holiday Portraits
• Dance fabric care guide
• Samsung: How to wash your costumes for all occasions
• Dance Teacher: Brush Up On the ABCs of Costume Care
• Utah State University Extension: Tricks for Removing Halloween Treat Stains
• South Dakota State University Extension: Drycleaning and Fabric Care
• Smithsonian Museum Conservation Institute: Tips on How to Handle Antique Textiles and Costumes
• Smithsonian NMAAHC: Tips for Preserving Your Family Treasures
• Library of Congress: General Preservation FAQ
• Sparefoot: Costume Storage Guide for Cosplay Outfits
• Fabric routines for sweat smell

Recommended

• Washing Costumes Guide: Clean Halloween and Cosplay Outfits